“L’amour Fou,”
produced by French film maker Pierre Thoretton is a documentary that follows
the relationship between Pierre Berge and fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent (mostly)
before the designer’s death on June 1, 2008. It also follows Pierre Berge after
the death of Laurent and his decision to auction off a good portion of the Paris estate. One of the
common themes in the film is introduced in the beginning when Saint Laurent is reading his press release to
the audience of photographers, journalists and fashionistas alike, is the theme
of going through hell and back again. He references the great French poet,
Arthur Rimbaud in his speech. I am including the entire English translation of
his farewell speech. I’m sure that somewhere online there is a manuscript of
his farewell speech in its original French language. So here it is (as far as
it is translated correctly) this is not meant to be an allusion to the Mormon
articles of faith (number 8) belief in the Bible “as long as it is translated
correctly). The music score, although often somewhat repetitive, is very well
suited for the tone of the film—often a bit nostalgic, somewhat melancholy, but
always hopeful and representative of a grand and decadent lost paradise.
I think several series of images capture Berge walking out
of darkened, empty rooms or spaces where once the belongings of he and his
partner—the glorious statues paintings vases decorated the walls and marbled
floors—where he is left with the only the glorious world around him. The opening
shows footage of YSL sitting behind a table with what appear to be the
microphones and recording devices of the press. I think it’s worth including
the text in its entirety. A light stack of paper in front of him, notes
scribbled or typed from his head, Saint
Laurent delivers a final goodbye:
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I have brought you here today with a great deal of emotion
to tell you some important news concerning my personal life and my work. At 18,
I was lucky enough to become assistant to Christian Dior, to succeed him at 21,
and to meet with success my very first collection in 1958, 44 years ago in just
a few days. Since then, I have lived for my work and through my work. I am very
proud that women around the world wear trouser suits, tuxedos, car coats and
trench coats. I tell myself that I have created the modern woman's {wordrobe.
(pun on wardrobe)}, that I have taken part in the transformation of my times.
Forgive me for drawing any vanity from this since I have for a long time believed
that fashion's role is not simply to make women more beautiful but also to
reassure them, give them confidence and allow them to assert themselves. Every
man needs aesthetic ghosts in order to live. I have pursued them, sought them,
hunted them down. I have experienced many forms of anxiety, many forms of hell.
I have known fear and terrible solitude, the false friendship of tranquilizers
and drugs, the prison of depression and mental homes. I emerged from all that
one day dazzled but sober. Marcel Proust has taught me that "the
magnificent and pathetic family of the neurotic is the salt of the earth."
I did not choose this fatal lineage yet it is what allowed me to rise up in the
heaven of artistic creation, frequent what Rimbaud called "the makers of
fire," find myself, and understand that the most important encounter in
life is the encounter with oneself. Even so, I have chosen today to bid
farewell to this profession that I have loved so much.
What follows is a visit to the past—a time of excitement,
blossoming love, a skyrocketing career (following the death of French icon
Christian Dior). And then later we see the period of time in which Saint Laurent is affected
by drugs, sex, and rock ‘n’ roll. Although I would have to mention that opera
also plays a large part of lives of these men. There are several pictures Berge
brings attention to featuring Saint Laurent
and the incredibly misunderstood (and prima diva) Callas.
The first reverence we have to the well-known French poet
Rimbaud is in YSL’s speech in the beginning of the film. He quotes him
directly:
I have been through fire and and the gates of hell..” only
to come out again blah blah blah
One of the elements that creates a
mood of melancholgy, loss, or wh what have you, is the combination of the archival
footage of Laurent and the beautiful music of Côme Aguiar who also composed for
movie title and 2002Primitifs. Whose soundtrack
is a lovely dedication hors d’ vouers.
Lovely port o’ prince to the infamous jane dough Eileen rombinson….
A critic on imdb.com believes that Laurent
is, beyond the genius, just a “snob with kind eyes”. I disagree. I think he was
an ambitious, motivated talent who rose to the top because, in part, where he
was at the time of Christian Dior’s death, and an eye for aesthetic bliss. I
don’t think any of these qualties identify one as a snob. Besides that, I think
the snob is self-conscious, fully aware of their own greatness (or perceived
greatness). And carries with them a degree of the attitude, “I’m better than
the rest of you, so I automatically deserve to be adored,” which of course
typically leads to the opposite or the former. Such is the case with editor in
chief of Vogue Ana Wintour, who’s presence is often sensationalized and
revered, or just as often if not more, oozing of pretentious snobbery. I
prefer, however, the term pompous elitist. Far from Wintour, I think, is
Laurent. At least on the surface (and during a certain part of his life) there
was an air of humility, “pathological” shyness, and less austere, more playful
kind of personality. He is often seen smiling with a boyish chuckle that comes
with insecurity or awkwardness. He was kind of a little geek when you think
about it—until the later years when he had achieved so much success and
developed friendships with a plethora of celebrities including Bob Dylan, Andy
Warhol, and LouLou De La Falaise. Maybe that is when the music started to
change. But I digress here somewhat. Editing is a bitch and a half.
No comments:
Post a Comment